[mythtv-users] Issues with my HDHomerun: Resource temporarily unavailable
Stephen P. Villano
stephen.p.villano at gmail.com
Sun Jan 4 19:37:33 UTC 2015
On 1/4/15 2:24 PM, Ian Evans wrote:
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 1:59 PM, Ian Evans <dheianevans at gmail.com
> <mailto:dheianevans at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 8:57 AM, Gary Buhrmaster
> <gary.buhrmaster at gmail.com <mailto:gary.buhrmaster at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 3:32 AM, Ian Evans
> <dheianevans at gmail.com <mailto:dheianevans at gmail.com>> wrote:
> ....
> > The power LED is solid for hours at a time until a recording starts. So is
> > it safe to assume that the increased load that occurs during
> a recording
> > causes something in the wall-wart to, say, overheat and
> cause the HDHR's
> > "reboot"?
>
> The typical failure mode of these POS bricks is the cap
> fails after a few years (heat related, usually), and you
> get extremely high ripple voltages. Random stuff then
> happens (well, not random, predicable based on the
> internal components and design) Observed/Reported
> symptoms include (random) resets, and signal lock/quality
> issues. If one opens the black POS adapter, you can
> usually observe the bulging cap, and even replace it,
> if one desires, but obtaining a high quality replacement
> even for the cap can sometimes be hard. Easier to
> just replace the adapter.
>
> Personally I automatically replace all my provided POS
> supplies with high quality switching supplies from OEMs
> such as Delta within days of purchase just because I
> like reliable power, but I have an advantage that I can
> walk to a local surplus store (and 10 minute drive to
> another) that sells them at huge discounts, so I do
> not pay the manufacturers retail prices.
>
> Note that I do not know what availablity you have, but
> the D-Link JTA0302B reportedly works (based on
> reports of others).
>
> As I recall, these are the same supplies as used for
> BeagleBone Blacks, so you might be able to find a
> match based on that.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Gary, and others, for descriptions of my power
> alternatives. I'll take a look. Silicondust also wrote back this
> morning saying a replacement would be $15 including shipping.
> Obviously if I can easily grab a non-POS alternative I'll do that
> instead.
>
> Is this who you meant by Delta: http://www.deltaww.com
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bowing down to those of you with more electrical knowledge, I see that
> the JTA0302B is a 2A power supply while Silicondust says it needs a
> 1A. But I do recall seeing people mention the JTA0302B in the 'dust
> forums.
>
> Going back to high school science I seem to remember amps are the
> "amount", while volts are the "presuure" of the power. So what exactly
> happens if I use 2A on something that calls for 1A?
>
The amps are like how much water flows through a pipe, volts is the
pressure in the pipe.
Using a 2 amp supply on a device that draws one amp won't be a problem.
That is the maximum amperage that can be drawn from the supply, not what
it'd try to force upon the device.
That said, if you put a 10 amp supply onto the same device, there might
be a problem, as the supply would not have sufficient loading. Years
ago, that was a significant issue. That isn't as true today.
> Also...going to the D-Link Canada site I can't see power adapters
> listed at all, while Amazon seems to be selling JTA0302B "compatible"
> adapters. Any suggestions where I could get the real deal if the 1A/2A
> thing isn't a deal-breaker?
>
> Side-note I love how people selling these things will list the V's and
> the A's but not type the additional characters to tell me if the
> connector is a 2.1mm inner-diameter connector, center positive.
>
> And finally, thanks, and wow, what did we do before the internet? Now
> we can tap into the hive mind and in a matter of hours have advice and
> education from all over North America, Europe and beyond and not just
> the spoon-fed info from companies.
>
>
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