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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/15 2:24 PM, Ian Evans wrote:<br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 1:59 PM, Ian
Evans <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:dheianevans@gmail.com" target="_blank">dheianevans@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
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<div class="h5">On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 8:57 AM,
Gary Buhrmaster <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:gary.buhrmaster@gmail.com"
target="_blank">gary.buhrmaster@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
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style="margin:0px 0px 0px
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rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">On Sun, Jan
4, 2015 at 3:32 AM, Ian Evans <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:dheianevans@gmail.com"
target="_blank">dheianevans@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
....<br>
<span>> The power LED is solid for hours at
a time until a recording starts. So is<br>
> it safe to assume that the increased
load that occurs during a recording<br>
> causes something in the wall-wart to,
say, overheat and cause the HDHR's<br>
> "reboot"?<br>
<br>
</span>The typical failure mode of these POS
bricks is the cap<br>
fails after a few years (heat related,
usually), and you<br>
get extremely high ripple voltages. Random
stuff then<br>
happens (well, not random, predicable based on
the<br>
internal components and design)
Observed/Reported<br>
symptoms include (random) resets, and signal
lock/quality<br>
issues. If one opens the black POS adapter,
you can<br>
usually observe the bulging cap, and even
replace it,<br>
if one desires, but obtaining a high quality
replacement<br>
even for the cap can sometimes be hard.
Easier to<br>
just replace the adapter.<br>
<br>
Personally I automatically replace all my
provided POS<br>
supplies with high quality switching supplies
from OEMs<br>
such as Delta within days of purchase just
because I<br>
like reliable power, but I have an advantage
that I can<br>
walk to a local surplus store (and 10 minute
drive to<br>
another) that sells them at huge discounts, so
I do<br>
not pay the manufacturers retail prices.<br>
<br>
Note that I do not know what availablity you
have, but<br>
the D-Link JTA0302B reportedly works (based on<br>
reports of others).<br>
<br>
As I recall, these are the same supplies as
used for<br>
BeagleBone Blacks, so you might be able to
find a<br>
match based on that.<br>
<span><font color="#888888"><br>
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<div>Thanks Gary, and others, for descriptions of my
power alternatives. I'll take a look. Silicondust
also wrote back this morning saying a replacement
would be $15 including shipping. Obviously if I
can easily grab a non-POS alternative I'll do that
instead.<br>
<br>
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<div>Is this who you meant by Delta: <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.deltaww.com" target="_blank">http://www.deltaww.com</a><br>
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<div>Thanks. <br>
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<div class="gmail_extra">Bowing down to those of you with more
electrical knowledge, I see that the JTA0302B is a 2A power
supply while Silicondust says it needs a 1A. But I do recall
seeing people mention the JTA0302B in the 'dust forums.<br>
<br>
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<div class="gmail_extra">Going back to high school science I
seem to remember amps are the "amount", while volts are the
"presuure" of the power. So what exactly happens if I use 2A
on something that calls for 1A?<br>
<br>
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The amps are like how much water flows through a pipe, volts is the
pressure in the pipe.<br>
Using a 2 amp supply on a device that draws one amp won't be a
problem. That is the maximum amperage that can be drawn from the
supply, not what it'd try to force upon the device.<br>
That said, if you put a 10 amp supply onto the same device, there
might be a problem, as the supply would not have sufficient loading.
Years ago, that was a significant issue. That isn't as true today.<br>
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<div class="gmail_extra">Also...going to the D-Link Canada site
I can't see power adapters listed at all, while Amazon seems
to be selling JTA0302B "compatible" adapters. Any suggestions
where I could get the real deal if the 1A/2A thing isn't a
deal-breaker?<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra">Side-note I love how people selling
these things will list the V's and the A's but not type the
additional characters to tell me if the connector is a 2.1mm
inner-diameter connector, center positive.</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
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<div class="gmail_extra">And finally, thanks, and wow, what did
we do before the internet? Now we can tap into the hive mind
and in a matter of hours have advice and education from all
over North America, Europe and beyond and not just the
spoon-fed info from companies.<br>
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