[mythtv-users] Issues with my HDHomerun: Resource temporarily unavailable

[Ian Evans]

On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 1:59 PM, Ian Evans <dheianevans at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 8:57 AM, Gary Buhrmaster <gary.buhrmaster at gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 3:32 AM, Ian Evans <dheianevans at gmail.com> wrote:
>> ....
>> > The power LED is solid for hours at a time until a recording starts. So
>> is
>> > it safe to assume that the increased load that occurs during a recording
>> > causes something in the wall-wart to, say, overheat and cause the HDHR's
>> > "reboot"?
>>
>> The typical failure mode of these POS bricks is the cap
>> fails after a few years (heat related, usually), and you
>> get extremely high ripple voltages.  Random stuff then
>> happens (well, not random, predicable based on the
>> internal components and design)  Observed/Reported
>> symptoms include (random) resets, and signal lock/quality
>> issues.  If one opens the black POS adapter, you can
>> usually observe the bulging cap, and even replace it,
>> if one desires, but obtaining a high quality replacement
>> even for the cap can sometimes be hard.  Easier to
>> just replace the adapter.
>>
>> Personally I automatically replace all my provided POS
>> supplies with high quality switching supplies from OEMs
>> such as Delta within days of purchase just because I
>> like reliable power, but I have an advantage that I can
>> walk to a local surplus store (and 10 minute drive to
>> another) that sells them at huge discounts, so I do
>> not pay the manufacturers retail prices.
>>
>> Note that I do not know what availablity you have, but
>> the D-Link JTA0302B reportedly works (based on
>> reports of others).
>>
>> As I recall, these are the same supplies as used for
>> BeagleBone Blacks, so you might be able to find a
>> match based on that.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Thanks Gary, and others, for descriptions of my power alternatives. I'll
> take a look. Silicondust also wrote back this morning saying a replacement
> would be $15 including shipping. Obviously if I can easily grab a non-POS
> alternative I'll do that instead.
>
> Is this who you meant by Delta: http://www.deltaww.com
>
> Thanks.
>
>
Bowing down to those of you with more electrical knowledge, I see that the
JTA0302B is a 2A power supply while Silicondust says it needs a 1A. But I
do recall seeing people mention the JTA0302B in the 'dust forums.

Going back to high school science I seem to remember amps are the "amount",
while volts are the "presuure" of the power. So what exactly happens if I
use 2A on something that calls for 1A?

Also...going to the D-Link Canada site I can't see power adapters listed at
all, while Amazon seems to be selling JTA0302B "compatible" adapters. Any
suggestions where I could get the real deal if the 1A/2A thing isn't a
deal-breaker?

Side-note I love how people selling these things will list the V's and the
A's but not type the additional characters to tell me if the connector is a
2.1mm inner-diameter connector, center positive.

And finally, thanks, and wow, what did we do before the internet? Now we
can tap into the hive mind and in a matter of hours have advice and
education from all over North America, Europe and beyond and not just the
spoon-fed info from companies.
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