[mythtv-users] Slightly OT - Help w/Homebrew IR Transceiver
Dan Morphis
dan at milkcarton.com
Thu Apr 15 18:31:02 EDT 2004
Brian Rumple wrote:
> I'll start with the last one first, I only believe that excess
> voltage would damage these parts but not polarity. The basis for
> this is very little knowledge and some experimenting when building
> mine. I swapped things around many times trying to debug my circuit.
> I've forgotten 98% of what I learnt in that one college hardware
> course.
Unless your dealing with an electroletic cap. You can cook them with
the wrong polarity.
>
> It sounds like you have a good handle on building this thing. I
> didn't notice anything wrong while skimming your message. I would
> suggest building and testing on a breadboard before solder
> everything.
There are two types of breadboards. Solder and solderless ones.
>
> Last week I tried building a receiver with the 276-640. I think that
> it should work, but all my values from irrecord are the compliment of
> what the real number should be (e.g. FFFF is coming out 0000). There
> is a sense option to lirc_serial module, but if a change it I get no
> response from mode2. Do you mind sending me your experience after you
> build yours?
>
> The transmitter is real simple and works great. Not very much range
> though.
Really? I used the 276-0137B and the range is awesome. I wonder what
package the -640. I know the -0137 is a repackaged sharp. I bring that
up because I got some of the panasonic's listed on the lirc.org site and
their range blew chunks. literally, unless I was within about an 8
degree range of the receiver, it wouldn't send the signal. I traced it
with a friends scope and it turns out that outside of that 8 degree
range, the signal wasn't being amplified enough by the onboard amp on
the panasonic receiver transistor/diode combo. You could get around
that by bumping up what the transister in the lirc.org circuit sent.
But that was to much trouble for me to figure out.
-dan
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