[mythtv-users] Which Signal Strength/Quality Alternative is best?

William Jacoby bonelifer at gmail.com
Sun Jan 22 05:15:42 UTC 2017


On 1/21/2017 7:56 PM, Gary Buhrmaster wrote:
> To list membership.  This is starting to get very specific
> to a unique case.  If there is any general consensus
> this should be taken offline, I am willing to move this
> offline.  Any opinions?
>
>
>
> Ok, another long post.....
>
> On Sat, Jan 21, 2017 at 6:12 PM, Craig Huff <huffcslists at gmail.com> wrote:
>>      Yes, I get my internet from Comcast, but I wouldn't call it high speed,
>> unless compared to the DSL I used to have -- dumped that when I had to
>> reconnect my modem to get a faster data rate!
> Any chance you can provide the signal levels from your
> cable modem, and the event logs?  Those numbers
> show various error counters, signal levels, and events
> that can suggest whether the real fix is to get Comcast
> to address a bad drop/source (GIGO, and if the GI
> is from the Comcast drop, there is nothing we do
> can do really fix it).
>
> *WARNING* do not post the entire MAC addresses
> in the logs (it is possible to cause difficulties for others
> with others MAC addresses).  Replace the MAC addresses
> with X's (if text cut/paste) or use your favorite image
> manipulation program to white them out.
>
> Direct email is acceptable if you prefer (but I would
> not trust me with my own info, so the same warning
> might be appropriate).
>
>>      Yeah, the demark test would be a hassle.
>>      As for a description of the connection, it starts with Comcast's
>> cheapest cable buried from distribution post at the back corner of my lot
>> along the fence line to the side of the house. As I recall, there are at
>> least two splices in that line because I cut it while mowing when they took
>> 9 months to bury it (then sent a guy out with a shovel and a barrel
>> connector -- not even electrical tape)
> Ok, a direct burial a repair requires a special
> "splice kit" which encases the repair inside
> a water sealed "goop" that protects the cable
> and connector from water ingress.  And direct
> burial cable must be a "flooded" style.  If it is
> not, and/or was not properly repaired, you may
> have water in the cable/connectors.
>
> Water ingress into coax cable generates standing
> waves.  There is no fix other than replace the cable.
>
> The results from the modem signal levels might
> hint at this (typically you see the signal levels
> all over the place, low, high, low, high, etc) as
> the frequencies change.
>
>> and the second is because they cut it
>> below the service entrance box rather than knock on the door to say the
>> police department reported RF interference in the area and try to fix it.
> RF egress/ingress is a common problem with bad
> inside wiring.  It causes problems for you, and for
> everyone.  Typically Comcast disconnects you
> at the street or the demark, but they do what
> they have to do (there are typically at least two
> different groups involved, the gals/guys in the
> truck looking for RF egress, and then the gals/guys
> who contact and deal with the customer; unless
> the issue is sever, the first ones typically just
> "tag" the house, saying "Call us NOW.  NOW,
> NOW", but that tag can also get lost).
>
>>      In the SE box is a splitter to separate the Internet and video feeds.
> Comcast supplied splitter, or one of your own?
>
>> The video enters at the top of the basement wall and runs about 10 feet to
>> where all my connections/distribution HW are. Most TV connections are
>> abandoned and unused ports on distribution amp (combo "low noise" amp and
>> 1:4 splitter) were terminated with F-connector terminators (probably from
>> Radio Shack, too).
> Brand/Model?  And is this one of those devices that
> use power supply that is multiple years old?  Even
> the best amp which is being fed by a power supply
> with high ripple (due to bad caps inside the supply)
> generates random noise.
>
>> ...  reaches the combination
>> surge arrestor/outlet strip. (It has surge arrestor options for RJ-11,
>> RJ-15, F-connectors, besides protecting the 120VAC.)
> Remove that from the path with prejudice.  I have never
> seen a combo device that was not more problem than it
> is worth.  If you live in a location which is vulnerable
> to lightning,  and do not trust the Comcast provided
> bonding point(*), you can consider adding after theirs
> a proper lightning protector near the demark with
> proper bonding to the house, something like:
>     https://smile.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Cable-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485048795&sr=8-1&keywords=coax+lightning+protection
>
>> A short drop cable from
>> there connects to the Ceton box. Cable jackets mostly just say CATV, except
>> the one to the Ceton, which is RG-59/U.
> Short lengths of high quality RG-59 is not a
> problem.  50 meters, yes.
>
>>      I should add that the video problems appeared on the tv connected to the
>> Comcast settop box, too.
> Admittedly, complaining about a "bad" picture when
> using a Comcast STB has the best likelyhood of
> Comcast addressing the problem.
>
>
>
>
> (*) In all recent installs Comcast will provide a
> bonding block(**) (aka "grounding" block), usually
> outside near their demark box.  Older installs
> may not have one.  Typically you can request
> Comcast install one, and they will do so at no
> charge, but no guarantee  about the no charge
> part (some states mandate the install for new
> installs, and will require Comcast/Verizon/etc.
> do it for free; I do not know about your location).
>
>
> (**) As an EE would know, there is a difference
> between bonding to the household bonding point,
> and a true "ground".
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>
As they say on a forum I'm a moderator on, private conversations about 
support and fixes, only help one person, ONCE.  As such can't help other 
people in the future. Does any of the stuff pertain to me personally?  
No, not right now,  or maybe ever but it could or it could for someone 
else in the future. At the end of the day email clients give users the 
ability to delete, they can read or not read, then delete, so you should 
really keep posting to list. It might save people time in the future.



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