[mythtv-users] Case suggestions

R. G. Newbury newbury at mandamus.org
Fri Oct 3 15:18:29 UTC 2008

DaveD wrote:
> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>> Brian Wood wrote:
>>> Raymond Wagner wrote:
>>>> R. G. Newbury wrote:
>>>>> Only problem I have had was that the power LED on the front is a bright 
>>>>> piercing blue, and the LCD was also bright, both of which my wife hated. 
>>>>> I disconnected the power led and removed lcdproc.
>>>> Why not just buy a sheet of transparency paper, print out gray, and 
>>>> cover the LCD and LED.  I'm sure there are plenty of other places you 
>>>> could find cheap tinted filters as well.
>>> Or just paint nail polish of your favorite color over the LED.
>>> Neutral density filters are available at camera stores and other outlets
>>> to reduce the LCD brightness, or use one of those over-priced "privacy
>>> filters".
>>> beww
>> All valid points but gee, guys, I don't need a light to tell me my 
>> mythbox is running: it's ON all the time. The only times it wouldn't be 
>> would be when the house power goes off. (OK, it could be re-booting...)
>> And it certainly would be ON if we were sitting watching TV!
>> As to the LCD, it was bright, and distracting and in the end not NEEDED. 
>> Some people might NEED it on, but I don't. I don't need it for the time 
>> or for the channel etc.
>> For that matter I also disconnected the hard drive LED as it's flashing 
>> was also distracting.
>> Of course, the box sits directly below the TV right in line of sight...
>> Your Viewpoint May Vary!
> I, too, found the SilverStone LED's WAY too bright.  A 10K resistor in 
> series with each did the trick.  I like being able to tell what kind of 
> HD activity is going on from the couch.  I can tell it's recording 
> something at a glance and with the 10K resistor, the light is barely 
> visible, not distracting.
> Also, I agree with Geoff that the LCD turned out to be a novelty that 
> wore off quickly.  I ended up with the SilverStone LC01, which has 
> nothing visible.  Very sleek and looks good in the stereo cabinet.  I 
> had to add a reset button, though, as I was trying to get Windoze 
> working when I first built it.  Long since gave up on that but I still 
> need it once in a while when mythfrontend gets stuck in some endless 
> loop of eating memory and swap that (virtually) hangs the machine.  But 
> I digress...  I just wanted to mention the 10K's.

We digress further.....I always have a console available so that Alt-Tab 
switches away from the hung mythfrontend. Then a killall mythfrontend 
will work.
If myth is so hung that that won't work, then yes...reset is necessary. 
The LC11 series have a reset button on the front.

To the OP: Back to case suggestions. Most of the 'audio receiver' style 
cases have *horizontal* slots for your tuner cards. Logic Supply sell 
riser cards, and flexible risers which allow your to fit your tuners. I 
had a Via motherboard in my case for almost 2 years. Via make a special 
2 slot riser which works in the single PCI slot on a Via motherboard. A 
flexible riser and that 2 slot riser allowed me to fit my tuners without 
difficulty into the case after I determined that there was no way to 
make them fit in the  usual manner. The flexible riser was maybe $20...

IIRC the LC11 came with a 2 slot riser and that is what I am presently 
using in the case with my tuners.


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          I may wish to offend you again in the future.

          Tux says: "Be regular. Eat cron flakes."

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