[mythtv-users] OT: Wiring a new construction home for A/V, Ethernet, etc
travis at tabbal.net
Tue Dec 2 16:35:51 UTC 2008
On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 8:12 AM, Robin Hill <myth at robinhill.me.uk> wrote:
> From looking at the images there, it would look to be a fitting which
> allows you to mount a socket faceplate without requiring any mounting
> points. It would appear to "clip" into the fabric of the wall
> (boarding/ducting/whatever) and allow you to then screw a faceplate onto
They also have models that screw/nail to studs. Easy to use. They are
basically electrical boxes without backs. Not legal for line voltage, but
for low voltage they are fine. In the US, Home Depot and other such stores
stock them. They are orange here, while high voltage boxes are blue (or
metal). I used them for every connection. Much easier to work with than HV
electrical boxes. The "clip on" ones are called "Old Work Boxes", for new
construction you want the "New Work Boxes". There isn't any sheetrock to
"clip" to when you're building. :)
My work was inspected by the general contractor and the local building
inspector. Generally, ask before drilling to make sure you're not drilling
too big or in the wrong thing and you're good to go. Low voltage cable has
very few code requirements. For your own sake, avoid HV electrical runs. The
AC lines and induce voltage on your LV lines and cause interference. That
REALLY sucks on speaker wire, you get 60Hz hum on your speakers. It can also
make network connections unreliable. Try to cross them at 90 degree angles
and don't run parallel any longer than you have to. 18" or less is
preferred. I tried to leave 1 stud cavity between electrical drops and mine.
I haven't had any problems so far.
Oh, and don't touch any laminated beams if you have them. I was told even a
tiny hole means it has to be replaced. I also didn't drill any roof trusses
for the same reason. I didn't need to anyway, the 2x4s at the top and bottom
of the stud cavities are generally fair game, so I used those. The floor
joists in the basement had knockout holes pre-cut, so I used a hammer to
knock them out and ran cable in there. I was told I could knock every one of
them out without damaging them. If you have a friendly general contractor,
ask if he can set aside an area for you to use as a basement to attic chase.
I used a triangular area in a closet space. I just had him add a small wall
there and I had about 1.5 square feet to work in. More than enough. If you
have a gas water heater or furnace, you might be able to use the same space
they run the exhaust vent in.
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